We need real estate investing partners for modular homes attached to actual foundation and the land. We can then rent it out for airbnb or bay area residents. Email email@example.com 408-854-1883. I also have 5% discount for Deltec round-shaped modular homes and solar panels.
The idea that your home can produce as much energy as it consumes. This does not necessarily mean making do with less. It is typically achieved with solar energy coupled with higher quality construction especially in regards to insulation.
- Solid I-Beam Chassis, 95.5” Axles
- 2×6 Floors, 16” On Center (2×8 in 16-wides)
- 2×4 Exterior Walls
- Insula on: R35 Roof, R11 Walls, R22 Floor
- 5/8” OSB Floor Decking
- 3/12 Roof Pitch
- 30 Pound Roof, 24” On Center Ra ers
- 7/16” OSB Roof Decking
- Concealed Ridge Beam
- 93” Sidewall Height
- Sealed Floor Duct System with Vapor Barrier
- ‘Ventilaire’ Interior Ventilation System
- Ver cal Cement Siding
- Architectural Shingles
- 6” Eaves
- 12” Front Side Overhangs
- Vinyl Dual Glazed Low-E Windows
- Flat Window Trim
- 2-Tone Semi-Glass Paint
- 36” Colonial Front Door
- 30” ‘9-lite’ Rear Door
- Exterior Lighting at Doors
- Cathedral Ceiling Throughout
- Knockdown Textured Walls, Rounded Corners
- Knockdown Textured Ceiling
- White Semi-Glass Paint
- Archway Styling (per plan)
- 2-Panel Passage Doors
- Linoleum Flooring in Wet Areas
- Baseboards in Wet Areas
- Grade 2 Carpet with 1/2” FHA Pad
- Globe Lighting in Hall and Bedrooms
- Dining Room Chandelier
- Ceiling Fan Ready in Living Room & Master
- Silent Rocker Light Switches
- Fabric Valances
- 1” White Metal Mini Blinds
- Wood Closet Shelving
- Wood Utility Room Shelf
- Toe Kick Registers in Kitchen and Baths
- 8” White or Stainless Steel Sink with Sprayer
- Gas Range
- High Pressure Laminate Countertops
- Ceramic Tile Backsplash & Crescent Edging
- 16 CF Refrigerator
- Marble Window Sill
- (5) Directional Can Lights
- 39” Overhead Cabinets
- Hardwood Cabient Doors, Wrapped Face Frames
- Cabinet Crown Molding
- Adjustable Shelves in Kitchen Overhead Cabinets
- Fiberglass Tub/Shower in Main Bath
- Pla orm Corner Tub in Master
- Flash Bath or Lux Tub (per plan)
- FG Shower Enclosure (per plan)
- Exhaust Fans
- Towel Bars & Tissue Holders, Brushed Nickel
- Porcelain Sinks
- Lavy Mirrors
- Bevelled Mirror Medicine Cabinets
- Elongated Water-Saver Commodes
- Two-Arm Torino Lights Above Lavies
- Single Lever Faucets, Sa n Nickel
- 36” Lavy Height in Master (32” in guest bath)
- Drawer Banks – Both Baths
ENERGY SAVING COMFORT FEATURES:
- (Electric – Plumbing – Heating – Utility)
- 50 Gallon Electric Water Heater
- Water Shut-O Valves Throughout
- Interior 200 AMP Service
- Copper Wiring
- 56 BTU Gas Furnace
- Plumb, Vent & Wire for Washer & Electric Dryer
- GFI Exterior Receptacle Near Front Door
- PEX Water Lines
Planning or Zoning Permits
There are typically two permits required for a new accessory dwelling the first is a planning permit and the second is a building permit. Planning Department applies the zoning rules and grants planning permits that allow the type of use (i.e., a single family home, a duplex a restaurant or a gas station etc.…) There are several types of planning permits such as a simple certificate saying that no special review is required or an Administrative Use Permit that may cost several thousand dollars. A variance would also be granted by the planning department in the very rare case that one is needed.
Zoning codes and building permit codes are very complex and city officials have discretion to “interpret” or “re-interpret” the code. This can make your project much easier or more difficult and it is essential for the owner, or design professional to review your design ideas directly with a city planner.
Measuring and drawing of an existing home’s interior and/or exterior spaces. These are used to inform the architect or designer as they design your remodel or addition.
Accessory Dwellings almost always come with a certain parking requirement. There are exceptions and the laws around parking change regularly.
Construction Documents are typically six to ten pages of technical drawings that measure 24” x 36” when printed. They consist of both the floor plans and elevations that were created in schematic design but are mostly “details” which are close up technical drawings of everything the contractor needs to know to build the home. This includes everything from the size of the rebar in the foundation and the density of the concrete to the insulation in the walls and how many nails or what types of steel hangers will hold the roof joists together.
- Permit Set: This is the bare minimum amount of information needed to get a building permit from the city. The designer or architect will leave many details to you and the contractor to figure out. This is common but causes headaches, as you have to figure out details as the carpenters are on site cutting wood and re-doing work.
- Bid Set: This is a detailed set of drawings that has all of the information a contractor needs to provide a fixed price bid and then build the entire home.
The building department grants Building Permits and they are based on the construction documents. You typically pay a “plan check fee” for the city to review the construction documents and then you also pay a “permit issuance fee” to actually buy the permit from the city.
Fees that are assessed based on the impact your new home is anticipated to have on the community. Typical fees include road, sewer, school and park fees. Most projects have little to no impact fees however some cities have a dozen fees or more. You have to call each city agency such as the school district, the water district, and the wastewater plant to confirm if they have a fee and what that fee might be. This can be a very unpleasant surprise if you don’t do your research early in the design process.
The specification of the materials, fixtures and appliances in your home.
Often done in Microsoft Excel or Word, these are lists of the materials, products, paint colors and appliances you will use in each room of your home.
Typically performed by the designer, this includes observing the construction and clarifying and design questions the contractor may have.
The agreement between homeowner and a general contractor. The best practice is to sign a fixed price contract that includes a project schedule, names every page in the construction documents and has a detailed budget naming all materials and work to be performed.
A request by a contractor to either add or remove a portion of work from the construction budget. Many custom homes will have 20 change orders and can still end on budget however, be wary, unscrupulous contractors use change orders to inflate the costs and all too often they are proposed as simple ideas that clients don’t realize are going to increase the cost until after the work is done.
Right-size or Downsize
Improving your home to better meet your needs. This may involve making your home much larger, adding an accessory dwelling.
Anything other than the traditional parent and child in a home and no one else. This takes many shapes and sizes and often times it involves a baby boomer sharing their home with a child or grandchild.
Accessory Dwelling Unit or “ADU”
Any new home or apartment added to a single family home. This includes additions, a remodel of existing space such as an attic, bedroom, lower lever or garage, or a separate independent home such as a backyard cottage, casita, or guesthouse.